Getting bored!

Awaiting the IVA date. Getting bored. Finding jobs to do!

Badges

The badges will be put on once the IVA has been passed. Here is a photo of the badges to be applied.

Left to right - Cobra badge on the steering wheel centre, LS6 5.7 litre badges each

side above the 'air intakes' and the round Cobra badge on rear boot (I think)

Pratting about

So whilst waiting I filled the car with fuel, as the IVA specifies a full tank. I tightened up the water and oil temperature sensors on the engine. Then I filed down any exposed threads under the car that protruded beyond the nuts.

Photos

I couldn't resist some more photos, so here are a couple.

Can you guess what it is?

Black stone guards at rear make it look more aggressive

Stripes

Thank you all those who sent me their views on the stripes. A variety of views. None the same! Now all I need to do is make a decision!

Stripes or no stripes on my Cobra?

Ummmm. What colour stripes should I choose if any? The car is currently plain white, but originally (nearly 2 years ago) I had planned to add black and red stripes. The interior is mainly black, but has red stitching on the leather and some of the carpet is red.

Should I have stripes? One or two main stripes? Pin stripes down the sides? What colour(s)? The choice is too much!

I want to keep the main white of the car, so will not be painting it. What do you think I should do?

My Cobra now

Original idea

Some other versions to get you thinking (there are plenty of variations too):

And finally the car that inspired me to build a Cobra

Please let me know what you think. You can let me know by clicking on the pencil, then writing your thoughts. Thanks.

Polishing and passing time!

I finished off polishing the Cobra today. At first by hand, then by machine using a lambs wool bonnet. Looks good, a real shine to it.

I have asked Andy at GD to install a new brake pipe to replace the damaged one, when the car goes to him for checking over and the IVA test.

Now it is a case of twiddling my thumbs until the car is collected for the IVA. What will I do with all my time - no car, no blog ........ I am sure that my wife has plenty of ideas!

Bleeding brakes!

Brakes

There was a weep where the copper pipe/brass union joined the central (rear brakes) master cylinder. There may not have been much of a weep, but with brakes you don't mess around. To inspect this I had to drain the brake fluid from the reservoir and pipes above the rear master cylinder - messy! Here I attached a plastic tube to the nipples of both rear callipers (separately). I then opened each nipple to drain the fluid from the pipes, as if bleeding the brakes, and the reservoir. The Eezibleed system was used to put some pressure in to the reservoir and pipes to flush out the brake fluid.

Once this was done, the rubber pipe that feeds the reservoir and the copper brake pipe were removed and inspected. I could see a small score on the copper brake pipe flare. Then I noticed two cracks in the brass union. No wonder it was leaking! I had probably tightened it too much to cure the weep from the flare in the copper pipe. Unfortunately I don't have a spare union or section of brake pipe to make another. I cleaned the master cylinder union hole with a cotton wool bud dipped in acetone, to get rid of any oil, then conceded defeat.

So I need to speak to Andy on Monday morning and ask him to fit a new union and pipe when the car comes down for checking over. As a result the handbrake cannot be finalised, so another job for Andy.

Polishing

Because I couldn't do any more work on the brakes, I turned my attention to cleaning the car. After vacuuming it out, I used Simonize carnauba wax on the body. Not the easiest stuff to put on and take off, but a great shine. Managed half the car before I got bored. Will do the rest tomorrow.

Final checks

Electric test

I was happy that all the electrics were working now, but a check prior to the IVA would not go astray. The electrics were tested with the engine off (ignition on) and with the engine running. So here is my checklist:

1. Side lights - ok
2. Dip lights - ok
3. Main beam - ok
4. Main beam warning light - ok
5. Flash lights - ok
6. Gauge back lights when lights on - ok
7. Fog light - only when on dip or main beam - ok
8. Fog warning light (only works on main lights, not side lights) - ok
9. Heater speed 1 - ok
10. Heater speed 2 - ok
11. Reversing light - ok
12. Indicator off side - front, side, rear and warning light - ok
13. Indicator near side - front, side, rear and warning light - ok
14. Hazard lights - all indicator lights flash - ok
15. Hazard warning - mine does switch, left and right indicator warning lights - ok
16. Horn - ok (loud)
17. Ignition light - goes out when engine running - ok
18. Wiper - intermittent (if fitted) - ok
19. Wiper - speed 1 - ok
20. Wiper - speed 2 - ok
21. Washer - ok
22. Brake fluid warning - from drivers seat (via ignition) and push on top of reservoir - ok
23. Brake lights - ok

Ride height

The ride height was adjusted so that the bottom of the front indicators were a minimum of 350 mm from the floor. The adjustment was made by turning the spring collar clockwise on the shock absorbers. A 'C' spanner was used for this. Mine took 10 turns to get the ride height correct. To keep count of complete turns put a small piece of masking tape on the platform and one on the moving collar, then mark a line across both pieces (see photo below). My chassis was a Euro, so the ride height was initially set by GD.

Markers on all four shockers

Pre IVA

Here is a pre-IVA check list for the GD 427. The results are shown in italics. Some final tweaks will be done by GD prior to the test.

1. Fit IVA fog light - needs to work only when main lights on (not side lights) - GD
2. Check number plate light bolt radius - Done
3. Change boot handle for IVA compliant (radiused) version - GD
4. Number plate bar and dummy in place - Done
5. Put rubber caps on door handles and starter button if necessary - GD
6. Add anti-slip covers on pedals if not GD drilled pedals - n/a
7. Add aluminium covers on screen pillar legs and wiper motor edge (if necessary) - GD
8. Make sure speedo is on driver's side - Done
9. Check all switches and warning lights are labelled - GD
10. Check relay block is high on scuttle side, not in foot well - Done
11. DOT4 brake fluid warning sticker on reservoir - GD
12. Check that nuts on steering column are nylocs - Done
13. Front wheels clearing inner arches on lock - Done
14. Front and rear wheels and tyres in straight ahead position must be within a plumb line of the wheel arches when measured between points that must not extend at least 30 deg. of the wheel centre for the leading edge and 50 deg. for the trailing edge - Done
15. P-clips securing boot loom (not tape) - Done
16. All wiring and plumbing secured at regular intervals - Done
17. Raise ride height so that bottom screw on front indicator is at least 350 mm (my screws were horizontal so I measured to the bottom of the indicator) from the ground and rear suspension is corrected too
18. Check that stone guards are edged in rubber or flush - Done
19. Replace side vents with blanks or fit rubber edging - Done
20. Screen pillar and centre mirrors fitted to GD advised position - Done
21. Remove any soft top fixings from screen pillars - n/a
22. Remove windwings and sunvisors - n/a
23. Screen washer filled and working - Done
24. Instrument radius to check - if 1/2- V type needs to be recessed - Done
25. Check that nylocs are used on seat fixings and seat belt anchorages (alternatively use spring washers) - Done
26. Seat runner adjustment levers removed and seats set in rear most position (if using roll bar head restraints) - n/a
27. Fit headrest in fills - n/a
28. Fit rubber edging to seat belt hooks and headrest T's - GD
29. Check hand brake lever for adjustment - GD
30. Check rubber boots are on alternator and +ve battery leads - Done
31. VIN plate fitted with chassis and engine number - Done
32. Change steering wheel to IVA compliant if required - GD

So now it is just the brakes to sort out, then a wash and clean prior to the IVA.

First engine start!

I had taken my time getting here I was told.

On the big day I had two helpers/observers in Keith Akerman (built a GD 427) and Steve Hughes (building a GD 427). Steve was the camera and sound man. Keith the eyes on the engine bay etc. I must admit that I was nervous and excited. Anyone who says they are not nervous is fibbing!

Before I turned the Chevy LS6 engine over, we checked the Schrader valve on the fuel rail. It still leaked. Not the start to the day I had wanted. After a quick trip to Halfords we returned with a valve tool and a new valve (I will change this for a genuine part as soon as it arrives from the States). Changing the valve was a quick job and it worked, no more fuel leaks!

Next we checked the dip stick to make sure that the oil level was were it should be. When I turned over the engine a few days ago without the plugs in I had over 30 lbs of oil pressure, so that was ok. We checked the coolant and all connections. The cap from the coolant header tank was left loose at first in case there was any trapped air. I had plenty of trapped air too!

The car was pushed out of the garage on to the drive to avoid any fumes or blackening my new cabinets. Car chocked in place, fire extinguisher ready and bonnet up .......... Ignition switched on. There was the sound from the fuel pump and an ignition light. Good start. Now just press the start button. Go on then, do it!

8 seconds or so turning over and she fired and ran. Grin from ear to ear! Thanks Kyle (engine builder). Here is a video of the big start up taken and edited by Steve. Look out for the child in me! TIP: Use a PC to view this video as it needs a Flash player.

At first there was some smoke and some steam - no worries as I had spilt some brake fluid and coolant earlier so could explain this. Whilst it was running we checked that all header pipes were going a nice bronze colour to indicate that there was a spark/heat coming from all 8 cylinders. No leaks!

Next we checked that the fan was coming on and sucking in to the radiator, rather than blowing forward. Of course it was going the wrong way. Then we checked the gauges (fuel, volts, oil pressure, oil temp and water temp) - all okay there. Oil pressure up at 60 lb or more. Alternator belting out power. Fan cut in at around 80 deg. Still no leaks!

After turning off the engine, I swapped the wires to the fan around to suck, rather than blow. We also noted that the fuse to the fan had just blown, as the rating was too low at 20 amps - Keith saw the fan twitch just as the fuse blew. This was changed to a 30 amp fuse.

We then started it up again and again (yes we all tried it). In amongst the activity, Keith squeezed the coolant pipes to move any trapped air. There was heat in the heater flow and return pipes. All looked okay and it sounded good too. Neighbours came out to see what all the noise was. The Mrs thought it was a plane, but it went on too long. Great feeling!

So another milestone completed in my GD build. Again thanks to Keith and Steve for all their help and encouragement.

Dashboard and steering column shroud in place

Took off the steering column shroud today, after yesterday's work.

The electrical connections around the column were interfering with the shroud, so I gently bent a couple of connectors on the switch and some of the wires. I removed the insulation from the main ignition connector. Once the connector was exposed, I crimped this on to the cable and insulated it with tape.

Getting the shroud and stainless steel cover in place was interesting/frustrating. It is a friction fit around the column and in to the cover. It was hard to locate it properly without crumpling the leather at the edges. After a bit of squeezing, pushing and pulling, it went in to place and could be fixed with button head bolts to the plastic mounting. The leather is persuaded to go through the dashboard hole, but is not glued in place. Watch where the cables go, as it is easy to trap them or route them incorrectly. It is also easy to pull off connectors when doing this!

Next I fitted the under dash trays. again I had to watch that I didn't trap any cables. The trays are located between the lower part of the dash and a cross member. The end nearest the bulkhead is fixed with self tapping screws.

So this is the finished job .... or so I thought.

Dashboard in place

I then tested the electrics again and I have clearly disturbed some wires in the process. It appears to be an earth issue, so Paul will be called in to sort out my clumsy work!