Hood (part 4)

The hood fabric was removed again and warmed up in the house, then refitted to the moulding and over the hood frame (this is important to ensure that the tension is correct). Make sure that the hood frame is fitted the right way round  - with the cranked bits facing forward. The frame straps were put in place to hold the metal tubes in the correct place. A small heater was placed on the transmission tunnel to keep the hood fabric warm and pliable.

The fabric was pulled over the hood bows and screen, then taped in place, making sure that the overlap at each side was as near as possible same. The rear fitting to the moulding had to be adjusted to remove the sag from the rear window and creases from the roof area. The whole thing took a lot of fiddling, a bit of cursing and I broke a few finger nails in the process!

Effective, but doesn’t look pretty!

Inside looks ok though.  Note: straps to retain spacing of hood frame

Next the hood fabric was released from half of the screen and adhesive applied to the front of the hood bow only. The fabric was pulled over the bow/screen into its original position and the tape was then re-applied to retain the position whilst the glue set. This was then repeated for the other half. Note: The fabric is only glued to the face of the hood bow (not the top, as this slopes in the opposite direction to the hood fabric).

The press studs were fixed to the moulding (see photo) to secure the hood flap. I used double sided number plate adhesive tape to help identify where the male studs should be fixed. Simply put a small piece of number plate tape or similar under the female part of the press stud and apply some pressure against it (the female part of the stud is already fixed to the hood). Then drill a hole in the centre of this mark. I used a small nut, bolt and washer to fix the male part of the stud.

Press stud fitting to moulding. 

I made sure the securing tape (to the screen) was plentiful and left the hood on the car overnight for the adhesive to go off.