Rear reflectors

Rear reflectors are a requirement for the IVA test. Some builders make brackets to fit the reflectors to and secure these behind the rear lights. This allows the reflectors to be removed after the IVA test, but it is not the neatest solution in my opinion. So Andy at GD Cars made me a pair of stainless steel stand-offs for the reflectors, to match the reversing and fog light fittings.

The reflectors have a captive 3/16 UNF thread and a rubber backing that is slightly sculptured (presumably for the original car). I could not find suitable tube nuts (used to link two bolts) or the right tap! So I decided to make something!

I bought a small length of 13 mm diameter aluminium bar (100 mm was the shortest I could get). Two 20 mm lengths of the rod were cut and these had a 4.5 mm hole drilled through the centre.

The reflectors were fitted to the stand-offs using the supplied nuts and washers - note the reflectors are marked with 'top' and the stand-offs are handed. A bead of silicone was applied to the back of the rubber seal on the reflector. Epoxy resin glue was applied to the thread on each reflector. These threaded ends were then inserted into the hole in the drilled ali bar (making sure that the cut bar did not protrude beyond the stand-off) and allowed to set. Rubber U seal was then fitted to the edge of the stand-offs. Also did this for the reversing and fog lights.

Rear of stand-off showing 'tube nut'

The positions of the two reflectors were marked on to masking tape - the bottom edge of the reflector needs to be a minimum of 250 mm from the ground (max 900 mm) and no more than 400 mm in from the edge of the car, to satisfy the IVA test. The centre of the holes were about 100 mm in from the centre of the rear lights and 70 mm below the centre line of the brake (bottom) light. A 5 mm hole was then drilled for each reflector stand-off in the Cobra's body. M5 cap head bolts and washers were used to secure the stand-offs from the inside of the boot.

Close up of reflector and stand-off

Reflectors in place

Gear lever and handbrake gaiters, plus drain holes

Gear lever gaiter

The leather gaiter was nicked around the bottom, then glued to the escutcheon using contact adhesive.

Nicked and glued

The escutcheon and gaiter were located centrally on the transmission tunnel over the gear lever and hole (the hole is not central within the escutcheon, it is towards the nearside). There was 45mm to either side of the escutcheon on mine. The escutcheon position makes the gearlever look central to the transmission tunnel. Then it was simply a case of drilling undersized holes, before fixing with three self tapping screws.

The gear shift knob was a leather covered Simione Racing model. This was fixed by putting a rubber insert over the gear lever and then the knob. The knob was located using three grub screws, before the collar was screwed into place. Finally the leather 'laces' at the top of the gaiter were tied.

Gear shift escutcheon, gaiter and knob in place

Handbrake gaiter

The escutcheon had to be bent slightly to match the shape of the floor. This was done by putting the escutcheon in a vice (protecting the polished face) and gently tapping it to the correct shape. The gaiter was then glued to the escutcheon as with the gear lever gaiter and fixed to the floor around the handbrake using five self tapping screws.

Handbrake with escutcheon and gaiter fitted

Footwell drain holes

Holes (12 mm) were drilled in the floor to take 15 mm plastic pipe inserts. If you don't install drain holes, the footwell can fill up with water when the top is down and it rains. This can prove difficult to dry out and can be a nuisance, unless you fancy a swimming pool! The inserts were glued, then tapped into place and the length trimmed from the inside.

Drain holes near bulkhead

Cobra power

Well electrical power I mean!

Power leads

The power leads have rubber caps put over their ends to cover the terminals and studs. IVA requires that there are no exposed power conductors where you could create a short. The studs were removed and Vaseline was applied to the end terminals to help get the rubber caps in place and reduce the risk of corrosion, and hence a bad connection. This was done for the live and earth in the battery compartment and for the power take off studs in the engine compartment. It was a fiddly and time consuming job, but it has to be done! Tip: If you have to do this try warming up the boots and apply Vaseline to the studs to help the boots slip in to place.

Boots over cables in compartment

Boots over studs in engine bay

Fuel pump power

The fuel pump requires power. This achieved be using the thick red cable from the loom that has a ring terminal at it's end. Another hole needs drilling in the passenger footwell/bulkhead. A grommet was fitted, after thinning the GRP a little. This cable was then run through to the battery compartment and connected to the live feed from the battery.

Widening footwell part 1

I have decided to make more space near to the accelerator pedal as it was tight even for me with my dainty size 8's. I pinched the idea from Mark Turnbull, thanks Mark (see link to Marks website on the right). The extra space will be some 40 mm, making around 365 mm in total between the cut out side and the footwell extension in the transmission tunnel. This gives over 30 mm each side of the accelerator pedal in my case.

The right foot extension!

First I marked out the hole to cut, using a template from Mark - wow a lot to cut away! The template was aligned by marking the farthest point of travel of the accelerator pedal and about 50 mm up from the floor. These two lines were 90 deg to each other. The main dimensions I used are 220 mm high, 205 mm wide at the bottom and 140 mm wide at the top.

I cut the corner holes using a 55 mm hole saw fitted to the electric drill ..... carefully, to make sure that I didn't go through the outer skin (watch the pilot drill bit here). Also, if you can, do this before you install the pedal box, I didn't and it would have been so much easier if I had! Once the GRP is cut through it is quite obvious as the resistance to the cutter is much less.

Marked out and corners cut using hole saw

Then using the Dremel and its flexible extension, I cut straight lines to join up the corners to complete the cut out. Next I removed the foam using a craft knife and a chisel. I left some near the top as it will make a smooth transition from the pocket to the side wall. I also think I may do this on the cut nearest the driver, to avoid me catching any shoe soles on the pocket.

Hole cut out  with some foam left near top

Now this is done I will create a 'pocket' using glass fibre. I have ordered the West System resin, which should arrive pretty quickly.

NOTE: This modification is not recommended by GD.

Build (and road) insurance

Today I had to renew the build insurance on the Cobra. A renewal quote of £302 from Footman James for build insurance looked good, but could not be cancelled part way through the term (or at least there was no refund) and it could not be converted to a road policy.

A-Plan offered a laid up policy, that once the car was registered, becomes a road policy covering me and my wife for up to 4,000 miles a year for just £490. I reckoned that this was a good price for a car valued at £60k and with 480 bhp. As I am aiming to get the car on the road for spring 2017, the A-Plan insurance seemed like a very good deal 😃.

Auxiliary power supply

I fitted the nearside under dash tray today. A reverse of the driver's side, so it was easy, except I added a 12v power supply outlet.

Auxiliary power supply

The power outlet that I used was an Audi part that is used extensively by the VW group, so can be found in VW, Audi, Bentley cars etc. I bought mine from Prestige Motor Services (see link on right). This is a neat solution that hides under the nearside dash and can be closed when not in use. It pops down when needed and closes up when not needed. It avoids having the power outlet on show for example on the dashboard, which seems wrong for a Cobra - even a modern take on one like mine.

The power supply will go on the passenger side nearest the transmission tunnel. I had to take care marking out where the heater outlet and the power supply unit needed to fit, as they go between the two cross braces. An oblong was cut out of the under dash tray for the power unit. Here I drilled holes at each corner of the area to cut out, then I used a jig saw to cut out the hole, before finishing with a hand file. The aluminium was too thin for the power supply clips, so small pieces of aluminium (shims) were cut to pack out the clips (see photo below). These were glued in place.

Reverse of under dash tray showing small shims at either end of power unit

Looking from foot well

The wiring will be completed when I fit the dashboard.

Under dash trays and dashboard plus door seal finishers

At last, some work after a break doing some housework! Well work on the new house. So I am back to building the Cobra after almost a three month lay off. Yes I did a few small jobs, but now it's down to it properly.

Some essential, but easy jobs first. The bonnet was secured properly. The pivot bolts were re-attached, as were the gas struts. Next the remaining caphead bolts and washers were used to secure the hinges to the bonnet.

Then the wires were extended to attach to the horn. A tie wrap secured the wires to the compressor to ensure that they do not flap about.

Wires tie wrapped to compressor

Under dash trays

I had already fitted the centre under dash tray (see a previous post) a while back. The centre tray is where the ECU will sit.

The outer trays were secured to the front cross brace (the brace nearest the bulkhead) using self tapping screws. This will allow access to the dash if needed, at a later date. I had been putting this off. I thought that dodging the swarf from drilling the holes would be difficult. It wasn't as the holes could be drilled without getting right under the dash, I simply leaned in to the footwell and drilled the holes.

Hole in the underside of dash tray drilled through to the cross brace

The outer trays were fixed to the front brace only.

Under dash tray secured by self tapper

They were temporarily held at the dashboard end by racing tape. The trays will be sandwiched between the dashboard bottom and the rear most cross brace (nearest the driver/passenger).

The footwell heater outlet holes are pre-cut in the GD panels, but the laser cut holes were too small for the plastic vent, so needed opening out. I used the electric drill and a burr.  Here one part of the vent pushes through the hole, securing with the flexible lugs. Two small slots in the trays and squares on the vent stop them swivelling. The other part clicks over the vent on the upper side.

Driver's side vent in place

The other side is handled in the same way.

Door seal finishers

I have decided to replace the door seal finishers. I was not happy with those bought from Europa having seen the GD items. The GD finishers are not cheap, but they are good!

Front nearside door seal finisher in place

The rear door seal finishers will take a little more thinking about before I can fit them!