Final checks

Electric test

I was happy that all the electrics were working now, but a check prior to the IVA would not go astray. The electrics were tested with the engine off (ignition on) and with the engine running. So here is my checklist:

1. Side lights - ok
2. Dip lights - ok
3. Main beam - ok
4. Main beam warning light - ok
5. Flash lights - ok
6. Gauge back lights when lights on - ok
7. Fog light - only when on dip or main beam - ok
8. Fog warning light (only works on main lights, not side lights) - ok
9. Heater speed 1 - ok
10. Heater speed 2 - ok
11. Reversing light - ok
12. Indicator off side - front, side, rear and warning light - ok
13. Indicator near side - front, side, rear and warning light - ok
14. Hazard lights - all indicator lights flash - ok
15. Hazard warning - mine does switch, left and right indicator warning lights - ok
16. Horn - ok (loud)
17. Ignition light - goes out when engine running - ok
18. Wiper - intermittent (if fitted) - ok
19. Wiper - speed 1 - ok
20. Wiper - speed 2 - ok
21. Washer - ok
22. Brake fluid warning - from drivers seat (via ignition) and push on top of reservoir - ok
23. Brake lights - ok

Ride height

The ride height was adjusted so that the bottom of the front indicators were a minimum of 350 mm from the floor. The adjustment was made by turning the spring collar clockwise on the shock absorbers. A 'C' spanner was used for this. Mine took 10 turns to get the ride height correct. To keep count of complete turns put a small piece of masking tape on the platform and one on the moving collar, then mark a line across both pieces (see photo below). My chassis was a Euro, so the ride height was initially set by GD.

Markers on all four shockers

Pre IVA

Here is a pre-IVA check list for the GD 427. The results are shown in italics. Some final tweaks will be done by GD prior to the test.

1. Fit IVA fog light - needs to work only when main lights on (not side lights) - GD
2. Check number plate light bolt radius - Done
3. Change boot handle for IVA compliant (radiused) version - GD
4. Number plate bar and dummy in place - Done
5. Put rubber caps on door handles and starter button if necessary - GD
6. Add anti-slip covers on pedals if not GD drilled pedals - n/a
7. Add aluminium covers on screen pillar legs and wiper motor edge (if necessary) - GD
8. Make sure speedo is on driver's side - Done
9. Check all switches and warning lights are labelled - GD
10. Check relay block is high on scuttle side, not in foot well - Done
11. DOT4 brake fluid warning sticker on reservoir - GD
12. Check that nuts on steering column are nylocs - Done
13. Front wheels clearing inner arches on lock - Done
14. Front and rear wheels and tyres in straight ahead position must be within a plumb line of the wheel arches when measured between points that must not extend at least 30 deg. of the wheel centre for the leading edge and 50 deg. for the trailing edge - Done
15. P-clips securing boot loom (not tape) - Done
16. All wiring and plumbing secured at regular intervals - Done
17. Raise ride height so that bottom screw on front indicator is at least 350 mm (my screws were horizontal so I measured to the bottom of the indicator) from the ground and rear suspension is corrected too
18. Check that stone guards are edged in rubber or flush - Done
19. Replace side vents with blanks or fit rubber edging - Done
20. Screen pillar and centre mirrors fitted to GD advised position - Done
21. Remove any soft top fixings from screen pillars - n/a
22. Remove windwings and sunvisors - n/a
23. Screen washer filled and working - Done
24. Instrument radius to check - if 1/2- V type needs to be recessed - Done
25. Check that nylocs are used on seat fixings and seat belt anchorages (alternatively use spring washers) - Done
26. Seat runner adjustment levers removed and seats set in rear most position (if using roll bar head restraints) - n/a
27. Fit headrest in fills - n/a
28. Fit rubber edging to seat belt hooks and headrest T's - GD
29. Check hand brake lever for adjustment - GD
30. Check rubber boots are on alternator and +ve battery leads - Done
31. VIN plate fitted with chassis and engine number - Done
32. Change steering wheel to IVA compliant if required - GD

So now it is just the brakes to sort out, then a wash and clean prior to the IVA.

First engine start!

I had taken my time getting here I was told.

On the big day I had two helpers/observers in Keith Akerman (built a GD 427) and Steve Hughes (building a GD 427). Steve was the camera and sound man. Keith the eyes on the engine bay etc. I must admit that I was nervous and excited. Anyone who says they are not nervous is fibbing!

Before I turned the Chevy LS6 engine over, we checked the Schrader valve on the fuel rail. It still leaked. Not the start to the day I had wanted. After a quick trip to Halfords we returned with a valve tool and a new valve (I will change this for a genuine part as soon as it arrives from the States). Changing the valve was a quick job and it worked, no more fuel leaks!

Next we checked the dip stick to make sure that the oil level was were it should be. When I turned over the engine a few days ago without the plugs in I had over 30 lbs of oil pressure, so that was ok. We checked the coolant and all connections. The cap from the coolant header tank was left loose at first in case there was any trapped air. I had plenty of trapped air too!

The car was pushed out of the garage on to the drive to avoid any fumes or blackening my new cabinets. Car chocked in place, fire extinguisher ready and bonnet up .......... Ignition switched on. There was the sound from the fuel pump and an ignition light. Good start. Now just press the start button. Go on then, do it!

8 seconds or so turning over and she fired and ran. Grin from ear to ear! Thanks Kyle (engine builder). Here is a video of the big start up taken and edited by Steve. Look out for the child in me! TIP: Use a PC to view this video as it needs a Flash player.

At first there was some smoke and some steam - no worries as I had spilt some brake fluid and coolant earlier so could explain this. Whilst it was running we checked that all header pipes were going a nice bronze colour to indicate that there was a spark/heat coming from all 8 cylinders. No leaks!

Next we checked that the fan was coming on and sucking in to the radiator, rather than blowing forward. Of course it was going the wrong way. Then we checked the gauges (fuel, volts, oil pressure, oil temp and water temp) - all okay there. Oil pressure up at 60 lb or more. Alternator belting out power. Fan cut in at around 80 deg. Still no leaks!

After turning off the engine, I swapped the wires to the fan around to suck, rather than blow. We also noted that the fuse to the fan had just blown, as the rating was too low at 20 amps - Keith saw the fan twitch just as the fuse blew. This was changed to a 30 amp fuse.

We then started it up again and again (yes we all tried it). In amongst the activity, Keith squeezed the coolant pipes to move any trapped air. There was heat in the heater flow and return pipes. All looked okay and it sounded good too. Neighbours came out to see what all the noise was. The Mrs thought it was a plane, but it went on too long. Great feeling!

So another milestone completed in my GD build. Again thanks to Keith and Steve for all their help and encouragement.

Dashboard and steering column shroud in place

Took off the steering column shroud today, after yesterday's work.

The electrical connections around the column were interfering with the shroud, so I gently bent a couple of connectors on the switch and some of the wires. I removed the insulation from the main ignition connector. Once the connector was exposed, I crimped this on to the cable and insulated it with tape.

Getting the shroud and stainless steel cover in place was interesting/frustrating. It is a friction fit around the column and in to the cover. It was hard to locate it properly without crumpling the leather at the edges. After a bit of squeezing, pushing and pulling, it went in to place and could be fixed with button head bolts to the plastic mounting. The leather is persuaded to go through the dashboard hole, but is not glued in place. Watch where the cables go, as it is easy to trap them or route them incorrectly. It is also easy to pull off connectors when doing this!

Next I fitted the under dash trays. again I had to watch that I didn't trap any cables. The trays are located between the lower part of the dash and a cross member. The end nearest the bulkhead is fixed with self tapping screws.

So this is the finished job .... or so I thought.

Dashboard in place

I then tested the electrics again and I have clearly disturbed some wires in the process. It appears to be an earth issue, so Paul will be called in to sort out my clumsy work!

Preparation for engine switch on

Oil and plugs

I drained some oil as recommended by the engine builder. So jack up the car again to get access.

Oil drain plug to right of centre

It is now at the top of the range shown on the dipstick.

The plugs were really difficult to get back in as there is very little room, so not looking forward to servicing the engine!

ECU

This was connected using the big multi-plug on the loom. It fits with one end in the slot first, before pushing the multi-plug flat against the ECU. Finally it is locked in place with the handle on the multi-plug.

ECU connector on loom

Now all sorts of things work, including the fuel pump.

Fuel

I turned on the ignition and heard the fuel pump run. Next I purged the near side fuel rail via the valve at the front.

Valve at end of fuel rail

This did not re-seal itself as expected. This may be some swarf from the fuel pipe. Apparently I should have purged from the fuel pipe, not the fuel rail.  So note this mistake. The fuel pipe flexible hose needs to be disconnected before fuel is pumped to the engine. Catch the fuel in a container and dispose of it.

Next I noticed another leak from one of the fuel hoses at the rear from the fuel pump. So I jacked up the back of the car this time to gain access. It was easy to see which hose it was and to tighten the union.

Dashboard

Whilst attempting to fit the dash and the column shroud, I removed the ignition barrel again, but couldn't get it back in and the ignition switch connections were tight against the shroud. When squeezed the ignition turned on!

Dashboard in but column shroud not right

So with the fuel rail and the ignition switch issues, sadly I have abandoned the plan to start the engine tomorrow.

Better day today

Electrical

Had Paul Brown look at the wiring today. He sorted out the remaining electrical issues. Most issues seemed to be bad earths.

So the following are now sorted:

• Indicators
• Headlight flasher
• All gauge back lights
• Courtesy lights (they had no live supply)
• Starter motor

All appears to be working well now, including the other items. Relief!

Oil

So it turns over now and there does appear to be a little too much oil in the engine. Will let it settle overnight, then dip it again. If it is still too full, I will let a drop out, then check for adequate oil pressure.

Sorry, no photos today.

Tomorrow's jobs

I need to check the oil level, connect the ECU and re-fit the plugs. Tidy up the wiring with tie wraps, then fit the dash, under trays and steering wheel. Once that is done, I think it is ready to fire up, with a bit of luck!

Not a good day in the garage today

Coolant

No visible signs of leaks. Good news.

Engine

No visible oil leaks either. So I removed the plugs ready to turn the engine over and get oil pressure. The 8 plugs are really difficult to get at and were not easy to remove.

And it went downhill from here.

Tried to turn over the engine - switched on the ignition and hit the starter button. Nothing! I then connected the fuel pump wire to the battery in case there was any electrical connection here. Still nothing. Will sleep on that.

Fuel

Put some unleaded in the tank and no leaks. Good start. But no fuel pump sound. Urghhhh.

Brakes

Jacked up the car. Connected the Eezibleed system to the reservoir and a  tyre (gets pressure from here which allows you to do it on your own). The new cap leaked - easy enough to solve, I thought. So I rescued the old one from the bin! Bin diving is not a lot of fun. Fitted the old cap and great no leaks from the reservoir, but ........

Bled the rear brakes whilst keeping an eye on the brake fluid container and the reservoir. Then I noticed a great big puddle of brake fluid at the front! It was coming from a master cylinder where it joined the brake pipe. At first it was just dripping in to the off-side compartment, but then it started running out through some holes and on to the garage floor, which is when I noticed it.

Cleaned up. Packed up. Fed up!

Preparing for start up

Preparing the engine

The engine has not been run since it was collected - almost 18 months ago. So before I attempt to start it, it needed some lubrication.

I had spoken to Andy at GD and to the engine builder. As the engine had run on the dyno it wasn't a first start, so oil would still be present in the pump. The advice from the engine builder was to remove the rocker covers, then add a litre of oil to each side. The oil was poured over the rockers/lifters, springs and down the pushrod bores. The latter required a "pump action" oil can to squirt the oil in to the pushrod bores, which are above the rocker assembly. Once this was done the rocker covers etc were re-fixed to each side and the engine left overnight so that the oil drained down and lubricated the top end of the engine.

Tomorrow, after checking for leaks, I will add the rest of the oil to the engine. Then I will remove the plugs, disconnect the ECU and turn it over until I have oil pressure. Lots of max 20 second bursts is best for the starter I have been told.

Wipers

Today I bent the wiper arms to line up the blades with the lower edge of the screen. I bent them in a vice with jaw protectors. The bending was trial and error until they lined up right. Once they were positioned correctly, I extended the arms so that the sweep was 380 mm. This is done by sliding the arms out a little away from the pivot point. When I was happy that the length was okay, I locked the arms in place by moving the little locking plate (near to the pivot point) to be parallel to the main arm.

Wipers lined up with bottom of windscreen

Seat belt anchorages

There was a locating hole in one corner of each anchorage. A small hole was drilled in the centre of each anchorage locating hole and a self tapping screw inserted to stop the captive bolt moving. I made sure that the eye bolt was mounted with the hole pointing towards the sides of the car, so that the eye was in line with the seat belt tension.

Seat belt anchorage located by self tapper

Hopefully this will satisfy Mr IVA.

A couple of outstanding points have been sent the Andy, but no response as yet.