Tuesday, March 12, 2019

Car for sale!

This car is for sale

The Gardner Douglas mk 4 is one of the best made, handling and riding Cobra replicas. This car is very low mileage and has been well cared for, garaged and never driven in the wet. A head turner and an awesome car to drive! £47,500.

  • 1st registered March 2017 (17 plate).
  • Built with new parts using a Gardner Douglas factory built rolling Euro chassis
  • Powerful V8 Chevrolet engine with manual gearbox
  • 0-60 around 3.6 seconds
  • Under 2,400 miles since new.
  • £255 road tax (2019), low insurance on limited mileage policy
  • Located in Yorkshire

To save you going through my blog, here are some photos of the car:













Key features

A British hand built sportscar
Thoroughly inspected by Gardner Douglas before IVA test (DVLA's rigorous inspection/test)
Passed IVA first time
Chevrolet LS6 V8 petrol engine developed by Tim Adams Racing Engines producing 480 bhp and 611 Nm torque (451 ft/lb)
Red rocker covers
0-60 in around 3.6 seconds
Reputed top speed of over 160 mph
Fly-by-wire throttle
6 speed Tremec Magnum gearbox
BTR Hydrotrak LSD
Stainless underslung exhaust with polished Cherry Bomb silencers
Euro chassis (rolling chassis built by factory with all new parts). Triangulated backbone chassis for rigidity (not the ladder type that is more likely to flex)
Uprated AP brakes
Paget Blue friction material
White gelcoat (carefully hand finished to high standard)
Metallic broad grey stripes, with red pin stripes in 3M wrap
Flush fuel filler
P700 style headlights
CNC machined side vents in black
Black leather interior, with red stitching, including head restraints
Speedometer, rev counter, fuel, water temp, oil temp, ammeter, volt meter, hazard lights, start button, lights and heater switches
Speedo has 2 trips, can measure 0-60 time, quarter mile time and top speed
2 setting heated seats (both base and back)
14" leather steering wheel and leather gear knob
Adjustable height steering wheel
Side intrusion bars in doors
Impact absorbing material built in to body by manufacturer
Fire extinguisher
Black and red carpets in the cockpit
Black carpets in the boot
Turned metal stalks, with self cancelling indicators
Intermittent wipers
4 point harnesses in black
Polished twin roll hoops secured to chassis by all three legs
Canems ECU
Canems immobiliser
18" Halibrand style wheels by Image (black centres with polished rims and spinners). Approx 9" wide front and 10" rear. Hidden securing nuts.
Michelin Pilot Supersport tyres
Air horns
12 volt auxiliary power outlet (under dash) with USB adaptor
12 volt charger connection (under bonnet)
Gas rams to bonnet and boot
Wind wings and sun visors
Fitted internal car cover, plus external cover
3 oil and filter changes since new! Only used Mobil 1 oil.
No expense spared on this car

Superb, beautifully built with care, reliable, fast and comfortable car that turns heads and sounds fabulous

£48,500

If you have any questions or want to chat about this car, please ring 07802 217353 or use the contact form on this page

Wednesday, September 05, 2018

Over 90,000 page views!

Just topped 90k page views, with the US taking the top spot, followed by the UK. Thanks to all visitors to my blog!

Wednesday, August 08, 2018

Northern Cobra Club North York Moors run

It was the Cobra Club Northern annual run this weekend, organised by Mike and Angela Hammond. We decided to just do the Sunday (the run was Saturday and Sunday). The overnight stop and meal was at the White Horse Inn at Rosedale Abbey. Our room was called the Kildale! Sense of humour?

Twelve Cobras had turned out for the run from Rosedale Abbey, ending at the Yorkshire Air Museum at Elvington, near York.
My car in the middle
Most of the Cobras
We travelled up on the Saturday evening, only to find that the battery warning light came on and the voltmeter was showing 13 volts (a little low). After some fiddling with the battery cables and Si Smith shorting out the contacts with his wedding ring (ouch - don't try this at home - the ring gets red hot), we decided that it couldn't be fixed, but was probably ok for the run. However, being cautious, we took the decision to head home. The run back was uneventful - so why did we not do the run?

On Tuesday an auto electrician checked out the car and pronounced the alternator faulty (only done 2,150 miles!). So a new one has been ordered and will be delivered and hopefully fitted tomorrow (Thursday).

Today the oil was changed again (a year since its last change), as a precautionary measure. So 5.5 litres of Mobil's best and a new filter put in/on to the engine at 2,275 miles.

Tuesday, May 08, 2018

Stoneleigh Kit Car Show 2018

Someone counted 85 Cobras on the UK Cobra Club area on Sunday and around 45 on Monday plus over 25 that I saw elsewhere at the show. What a display. Superb!

A view of some of the Cobras on display
Another view with my car in the foreground
Another shot .... of Cobras
My car (again) with the bonnet up
Thanks to all those who came to say hello on Sunday and Monday - I am not going to name check as I will no doubt miss someone off! It really is a privilege to talk to you all. Comments on my car and blog are really appreciated. It was great to meet all the enthusiasts, both people I know and new Cobra owners embarking upon the build process. Good luck to all and hopefully my blog maybe some small help along the way.

Monday, March 26, 2018

Heated seats part 3 - wiring

The supplied relays were fixed to the transmission tunnel behind the seats, using self tapping screws over the carpet.
Relay fixed to the transmission tunnel
The transmission tunnel carpets were lifted along the edge near the floor. The wires were then fed along this area towards the front of the car and up to the central under dash tray.
Wires routed under the carpet, against the transmission tunnel
The earth wire was attached to the ground point on the chassis.
Ground point on chassis
The supply and ground wires were both extended.
Wires extended and tie wrapped in place
20mm holes were drilled in the under dash trays near to the heater outlets. The switch wires were disconnected from the loom and fed through the tray and clicked in to place. They were then reconnected to the looms.

The supply (live) wire was connected to position 3 on the ignition switch, so that the seats only operated when the ignition was on and would not drain the battery if left switched on.

So now to test. Without the ignition switched on, there were no lights on the switches in any position - so a good start! Next the ignition was turned on. A green light when the switch was set to the low setting. A red light when it was set to maximum. And no light at the off/central point - great news.

Now I just need to test it in anger.

Edit: Been out in the car today (Thursday) and the heated seats really work. Brilliant!

Sunday, March 25, 2018

First run out of 2018

Bolted in the seats after fitting the heat pads. Then started her up. Just love the sound of that V8.

To Ilkley, then Bolton Abbey, up to the Strid, over to the outskirts of Skipton, down to Addingham, into Ilkley over the Moors to home. Then topped up with Super Unleaded - the car, not me! Lovely day and great weather.

Good to get out again.

Friday, March 23, 2018

Burley-in-Wharfedale Classic Car Show - 19 August

See over 350 classic cars at the Burley Classic Show near Ilkley. Last year there were Aston Martins, Rolls Royce, Minis, Jaguars, MGs, Triumphs, Jowetts, Austins, Datsun, Land Rover, American cars and much more. Plus a good selection of motorbikes and some steam engines.

There will be a number of Cobras at the show from the Northern Cobra Club, including mine. So if you fancy seeing them and the car featured in this blog, do come along. It is a great day out.

Put it in your diary - 19 August - and say hello!

Saturday, February 24, 2018

Heated seats part 2 - the heaters

The heated seats kit has arrived, along with the staples.
The kit
Unfortunately the instructions are in German! But the company who produced them were very quick with a response to an email and a link to an English version. The wiring diagram was fine and understandable, but I was concerned that there was something hidden in the wording.

First the pads were detached from the loom. The pads were fixed to the foam base and back of both seats using the double sided tape fitted to the pads.
Heat pad in place
This was easy for the base, but I needed to remove more staples from the side (bolster) leather to allow me to get my arm up the back. The latter proved a bit tricky to remove the film from the sticky tape when in place! However, once done and pressed firmly in to place it appears very successful and can't be seen from the outside. Next the leather seat covers were stapled back in place using 8mm staples.

A 16mm hole was drilled in the lower back at the centre and the wires from each pad fed through. An extra layer of tape was wound round the wires, to avoid chaffing, and these were then taped in place facing the transmission tunnel.
The wires at the base of the backrest
A 16mm hole was drilled in the lower back at the centre and the two pad wires were fed through. An extra layer of tape was wound round the wires to reduce the risk of chafing. The wires were made to face the transmission tunnel and taped over. The fixing rails were re-fitted using the original cap head bolts, before the seats were cleaned with leather conditioner. Done.
Seat looks like it did originally

Thursday, February 22, 2018

Head restraints - liberating space

The head restraints supplied by GD restricted how far back the seats could be pushed back. So to address this I modified them! Now I have an extra 40-45mm of travel in the seats.

The head restraints were removed from the seats. The head restraint was placed on a flat surface upside down and by putting a metal ruler against it, a line was marked in chalk 150mm up (so 150mm from the top).
Line in chalk 150mm up
Next the sides were marked in chalk. These side lines were marked from the line across the back parallel down to the metal location bars and finished about 12mm behind the bars (you can see how much will be removed).
Line in chalk across side
The leather cover was then removed by releasing the Velcro and then compressing the foam of the head restraint, taking care not to rub off the chalk lines. The measurement/markings were then transferred on to the head restraint leatherette. The three pieces of Velcro were removed from the cover and retained for later use. I turned the cover inside out and then unpicked the sewn seams at both sides from the bottom up to the line that went across the head restraint. There were two rows of stitches (a hidden seam stitch - black in my case and a top stitch - red for mine). The threads were then knotted on the reverse and a covering of contact adhesive applied. These two actions should stop the stitching unravelling further. The leather cover was put to one side.
Leather head restraint cover removed
The surface of the leatherette head restraints were then cut downwards from the line drawn to about 12mm from the head restraint location bars underneath. It was then cut across just above the bottom roll (leaving a lower flap for glueing). This formed an H shape cut (see photo below).
Leatherette cut in H shape on head restraint
The leatherette was lifted from the foam underneath. The foam that protruded was removed (try a hacksaw to get a smooth surface, but watch you don't cut any leatherette), as was any residual foam still attached to the leatherette of the back, bottom and side flaps. The top flap had about 5mm removed from the across the bottom (the exact amount can be established by pulling the leatherette tight and marking a line across the flap over a flat area of the head restraint, to remove any excess). The side flaps were carefully thinned, then the top flap was thinned for a strip about 12mm deep across the width. The side flap (a triangle) was marked on the reverse of the top flap and this too was thinned.
Head restraint being operated on!
Contact adhesive was applied to the foam, the reverse of the bottom flap, the reverse of the top flap including the thinned area, the reverse of the thinned side flaps, the leatherette faces of the side flaps, the leatherette face of the lower flap (about 10mm across the width). Once touch dry, the bottom flap, followed by the side flaps were pressed in to place. Finally the larger top flap was pressed in to place on to the foam.

The cover was fitted over the head restraint and the new position of the Velcro marked with chalk. The cover was removed, then the Velcro was glued and machine sewn in place. The stitching was redone by hand, down 45mm below the chalk line - both the seam and the top stitch. The remainder of the seams were simply top stitched for continuity. Finally, after refitting the cover again, it was tightened in place, using the Velcro. The remaining bits at the bottom corners were glued in place to make a neat job.
Head restraint in place liberates about 40mm of extra seat travel,
a further 70-75mm is available if the head restraints are not fitted.
The modified head restraints have removed a fair bit of the padding at the bottom back which touched the rear bodywork. This now allows the seats to be pushed back a further 40mm or so.

Wednesday, February 21, 2018

Heated seats part 1 - preparation

So living in the north where it is cold, I have decided to fit heated seat pads to my Cobra's seats. I had said a while ago that any future cars I had with leather seats would always be heated. But in my infinite wisdom decided not to bother for the Cobra - big mistake!

The heat pads for both seats were ordered from Amazon for just £58, including switches, relays and vat. This compares with a 2015 GD price list (which is all I had) at about £300 inc vat. I have decided to fit the switches to the under dash trays to avoid cluttering the dashboard. They have LED indicators showing that the heaters are off or on and at what setting. I may not be able to see the passenger side warning light from the driver's seat, but I should feel the driver's seat warm! This should remind me to check the passenger side.

First the seats were removed by undoing the four nuts and bolts that held each seat in place.
One of the removed seats
A seat base was removed from the seat. The base is held in place by Velcro all around and at the front the leather. I lifted the base from the back, pivoting it towards the front. I then found out that the front was also held in place by some glue, so I had to carefully detach it.
Velcro and glued area on front of seat base
I had expected the back rest to be the most difficult, so I explored this first. The leather was secured with staples at the base.
Staples at base of seat back
These were removed and to my delight the back leather was not stuck to the foam, so the pad can simply be fed up the back and attached with the sticky tape provided.

Next, the leather was released from around the back of the seat base. This Revealed that the leather was stuck to the foam! So I had to remove the staples from all around the seat base. This was a very time consuming process, because I didn't want to damage the leather. The Velcro was left in place on the base, but staples were removed where necessary.
Staples removed all around
Once all the staples that located the leather had been removed - loads of them, I tackled the delightful job of separating the leather from the foam. The leather was glued fully on to the top of the foam seat base. Once the leather was released, I scraped off the remnants of foam and lightly sanded this to remove any that I had missed.
Cleaned up seat base leather (reverse side)
To get to this point took me about 3 hours for one seat. Now for the other!

I have also ordered some upholstery staples to help me put it all back together, along with some contact adhesive.

When the pads arrive I will tackle the installation and wiring of them.

Thursday, February 15, 2018

Stoneleigh National Kit Car Show 2018

The dates for the National Kit Car Show at Stoneleigh in Warwickshire are Sunday 6 May and Monday 7 May. It is the bank holiday weekend.

I will be there, but the weather will dictate if I am in the Cobra or not, as I am still without weather gear for the car! Some of previous displays are below:
Take a brisk ride in a Westfield to get the adrenalin going!
A GD T70 Spyder
The GD stand with a mk3 complete with hardtop
The Ultima stand
A few of the Cobras on display
A mk3R on the GD stand
A mk4 on the GD stand
The AK stand

Thursday, February 01, 2018

Bonnet handles in place of locks ☹️

I wanted to keep clean lines on the Cobra, so I fitted low profile locks on the bonnet, rather than the traditional locking handles. I felt that my car would look better without the handles and still do. However, from a purely practical point of view, the low profile locks make the bonnet difficult to open. The handles do address this issue.

So I splashed out nearly £120 to address the practicality and thereby sacrificed the looks. I bought a set of handles and locking cams from Europa Spares - a benefit is that the bonnet and boot keys are the same. The four M4 raised head machine screws used to fix the handles came from Kayfast.

The existing locks were removed from the bonnet and the new handles were checked for fit. The existing holes were about 2mm bigger than required and had been squared off for the existing locks, but each hole will be covered completely by the handle fixing plate.

The locating pins on the handle fixing plate were removed, as these and the fixing holes were right next to each other, so would have weakened the fixing point. The underside of the fixing plate were then lightly filed to remove the excess metal left after cutting.
Locating pins removed from inner side of each hole on each fixing plate
The two fixing holes on each fixing plate were marked next to the existing holes, before drilling 4.5mm holes through the bonnet.
Two 4.5mm holes drilled each side of existing hole
The handles were temporarily fitted to the bonnet.
Raised head machine screws used to secure fixing plate

The cams were fitted so that the top edge was the same distance from the bonnet as the top of the locating slot.
Locating slot with escutcheon around it
They were then thinned slightly on the bench grinder so that they located in the bulkhead slots. This was a time consuming and faffy job!
Curved surface of cam thinned down 
Once fitted correctly, the machine screws were secured on the underside with nylon nuts and washers.
Bonnet handles fitted in place of locks (a shame)

The boot handle was a straight swap (apart from shortening the square bar) and it looks exactly the same.