Bodywork frame

I made the bodywork support frame in the last couple of days. This will allow me to work on the GD427 cobra build, doing such tasks as removing the flashlines and cutting various holes - crickey a new shiny body and a hole saw! I have ordered a GD Euro Mk4, so the body will be ready before the chassis (August for the body).

I have seen a number of requests for dimensions and list of parts, so here is mine. Hope it helps others!

The basic dimensions are to support the GD427 Mk4 body (and have been provided by GD). The frame goes under the floor/foot well of the body. I guess that with some tweeking (not to be confused with twerking) this would work for other makes too. With some modification at a later date, the frame could also support the body over the chassis if required.

It was suggested by GD that the frame be made 400-500 high, but this depends on what height you want to work at.

• I have selected 500 mm high for mine. Edit: I am 5'8" and 450 mm would have been a little better.
• 1370 wide (4'6")
• 1220 long (4')

All the following measurements are in millimetres.

My cutting list/things needed:

1 @ 10 mm ply 1370 x 1220 for top
8 @ 10 mm ply 250 x 250 (with one corner cut off) for corner brackets
4 @ 316 x 100 x 100 softwood for legs
2 @ 1350 x 100 x 50 softwood top cross member
2 @ 1350 x 125 x 50 softwood bottom cross member
4 @ 1130 x 100 x 50 softwood for centre cross members and side cross members
4 @ castors model M483-1 (swivel and brake) 100 mm high and capable of taking 136 kg each (total 544 kg) from Machine Mart (Edit: 100mm will do, but bigger castors would be better)
200 @ 40 mm No 10 screws
8 @ 80mm No 10 screws
16 @ 50mm x 8mm coach screws

Approximate cost (2015):

Timber and screws £60
Castors £35
TOTAL £95

Tools required:

Workmate or bench for cutting
Saw (ideally hand and electric)
Drill and bit
Screw driver (preferably electric)
Set square
Straight edge and pencil
Tape measure

Building the frame:

1. Cut timber to size if not already done. The legs need the tops cutting out for the cross members to leave a square piece sticking up in one of the corners (see "Frame taking shape" photo 4 below).


Initial cutting

2. Lay two legs on ground and add a long cross member. The longer pieces go to the edge of the legs. Secure at right angles using corner braces and screws. Repeat for second side.


Side view of frame

3. Add shorter cross members to each side and secure with corner braces. The shorter pieces will fit in to the cut out section, but they do not extend right to the outside edge of the leg due to the position of the longer cross members.


Corner brackets for strength

4. Fit the two remaining short cross members across the frame using the 8 longer screws in to the ends. 



Frame taking shape



5. Fit the big piece of 10mm ply to the top. Square up and secure with plenty of screws.

With plywood top and bottom cross member attached 

6. Turn the frame over and fit both the 150 x 50 softwood pieces to the legs on the short sides. Then fit the castors, using the coach screws, at each corner to these timber braces. DONE!

Braked castors fitted - complete!

The top will require some timber to stop the bodywork moving on the frame and that will get added later when the body arrives.

I will post photos of the body on the frame once I have it.