Now to the bonnet. First I filed down the edge. What a dusty job!
The ridge along the bonnet edge before filing can just be seen |
Ridge filed down ready for gel coating |
The bonnet was not the best GD moulding. It had nearly 30 blemishes on the surface. They are marked up with dry wipe marker pen in the photo below. Many of the circles contained multiple blemishes.
Bonnet blemishes marked |
The edges of the bonnet were gel coated twice, before rubbing down. The blemishes only needed one coat. The bonnet was then rubbed down and compounded with Farecla G6, before re-fitting to the body and lining up. This took hours.
Bonnet locks
I had decided on locks, rather than the traditional handles to keep the lines sleek and fuss free. The hole centres were not marked up by GD, so like the demist vent positions, I got them from Keith Akerman's car! Opening the bonnet will be a challenge I face. Hadn't thought of that - I may fit a spring to lift it a little or add a scoop to lift it with! Yet to decide.
I think the fixing process would be similar for fitting the handles as the locks, but check the measurements.
The hole centres are marked up on the bonnet at 41mm from the back of the bonnet, nearest to the windscreen. They are 680mm apart - 340mm each side of the centre line. Pilot holes were drilled in the bonnet, before 20mm diameter holes were drilled in the bonnet with the step drill. Because of the thickness of the bonnet and the depth of the steps, I had to drill from both sides.
Pilot hole drilled for the bonnet locks |
Lock in place in the bonnet |
Escutcheon fixed to bulkhead |
Lock on underside of bonnet |
View from inside the engine compartment |
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