Engine loom part 1

Engine loom

The loom can either be fed from the cockpit through to the engine bay or the other way round. I chose the latter because it was easier, even though it required the bulkhead hole to be opened up a little by filing sufficient GRP to allow the ECU connector to be passed through. The bulkhead hole will be covered by a grommet at a later date.

With hindsight the loom could have been connected before the body was put on. This would have made access much easier.

First, the relay and electrical block were taken off the loom, before the big ECU connector, pedal connector and the wires for the relay were fed through the bulkhead hole.

Engine loom bulkhead hole from engine bay

Engine loom from cockpit side

The loom was connected to the injectors (odd numbers to nearside) and main connection blocks in between the injectors first. This got 10 of the connections out of the way!

Injectors, main connector between cylinder 4 & 6 and throttle pot connected

Next I connected the engine loom to the front body loom. This was simply pushing the two round connectors together.

Connection to main body loom

The throttle connectors were connected to the throttle body, then the alternator was connected (I added a boot to the live connection post), then the cam and the earth wires were connected, which were followed by the MAP and knock sensors.

Water temperature and cam sensor connected. Alternator to do

Connections from nearside

The air intake sensor wires were too short so had to be extended.

I had to jack up the car and remove the two front wheels to get at the other sensors, such as the crank, lambda and starter. The crank sensor is virtually inaccessible, so I managed to connect this by reaching through the extended foot well!

Crank sensor almost hidden by starter motor!

The gearbox connections are still to make, but most are now done. The full wiring connection is detailed in one of my other posts.

Next I refit the fuses and realised that I needed two others. The fuse ratings of the ones supplied were incorrect for my car. The missing two will be 10 amp and then a 20 amp in the bottom slot. The fuse ratings and position are shown in the GD wiring manual.

Fusebox with two missing fuses.

I then refitted the relay block in the cockpit area.

Under dash trays

There are three panels that go under the dash. One in the centre and one either side.

First I fixed the centre "tray" to the brackets on the two cross braces. Many builders fix these under the brackets and between the braces. I fixed mine above to avoid having to make alterations to the panel and having to elongate the holes. Also it seemed more logical, having tried to do it the other way. The central tray was fixed with button head bolts and nylocs.

Centre tray fitted

The outer trays will have to wait until another day.