Wiring success!!

A variety of jobs today.

Number plate light

I managed to get the number plate wire pulled through ..... eventually! After about an hour of trying to hook the wire through the hole I had made in the boot lid, I gave up and drilled a hole from the other side of the boot lid.


Not pretty, but it did the trick! Now needs filling and gel coating

The wire was hooked through this hole, then a draw wire attached to pull it up the channel to the number plate light location. A grommet will be used to fill in the hole.

Wire pulled through

This wire was threaded through the light base and the fitting attached. Then the bullet connectors were soldered on.


Number plate light fitted

Door hinges etc

Next the doors were removed, so that the metalwork could be painted, the lip cut back and the gel coat on the edge rubbed down for the first time.

The gel coat rubbed down ok, but showed the GRP below in places. So more gel Coat was mixed and applied. The joint between the inner and outer skins needed a good coat or two of gel.

The tapped holes and the pivot holes on the metalwork, were filled with plasticine to make sure that they were not covered in paint.

Door aperture

In the meantime the edges around the door apertures were marked from the door side to give a consistent 12mm lip all round. A small block of wood was used for this and a screw fixed so that it stuck out a small way to scribe the cut line. The trusty Dremel was used to remove the excess. Watch the cutting blade! They have a habit of breaking and flying off

Lip cut down to 12mm

Wiring

I drilled 24mm holes through the inner wing for the front loom and the 12mm holes to the under wing compartments for the indicator repeater cables. The hole sizes all allow for the grommets I used. The GRP was thinned down around the four holes and Vaseline used to allow the grommets to fit. The cables will be held in place by various size P clips, once I have long enough cap head bolts of the right size.

Underseal

I undersealed just the one wing today - it is important with GRP cars that underseal is applied to reduce the risk of star crazing, caused by stones flying off the wheels and hitting the underside of the wings. I used IsoFlex (available from big DIY stores and builders merchants), as others had used this product. But, forgot to put on rubber gloves - it goes everywhere! It has the consistency of a thick paint or golden syrup!

One done three to go and then its a second coat! The yellow is masking tape to protect the wheel arches.

Just three more wheel arches and then another coat.